When it comes to getting around Cameroon, there’s no better way to experience the country’s vast landscapes than by train. And trust me, you’ll need a good mix of patience and excitement for what could be a 13-hour ride across the heart of the country! Welcome to the world of Camrail—Cameroon’s national railway company, where comfort meets unpredictability. I’ve had my fair share of travel experiences across Cameroon, but taking the train from Yaoundé to Ngaoundere stands out.

So, sit back, relax, and let me take you on a journey through the highs and lows of Camrail, ticketing surprises, and a whole lot of waiting.

Before even stepping foot on a train, my trip began in the charming city of Buea. I hopped on a comfortable VIP bus for an overnight journey to Yaoundé. The bus took off at 10 p.m. and we cruised along, reaching the capital in about 5-6 hours.

Arriving at 4 a.m. is a bit too early for most people. But hey, when you’re traveling, you’ve got to roll with it.

Luckily, the bus station had a cozy waiting room, where I killed time for a few hours until dawn.

The Yaoundé Train Station: A Waiting Game to travel from Yaoundé to Ngaoundere

Now, if you thought my journey was all smooth sailing, here’s where it gets interesting. From the Fouda neighborhood, I grabbed a taxi for 200 FCFA (about 30 cents) to the “Gare des trains” in French meaning train station. It’s a quick 15-minute ride. I was feeling good—until I found out that the counters weren’t selling tickets for my Ngaoundere trip just yet.

Instead, they were busy with passengers heading to Douala city.

Fast forward two hours later (yes, two!), and I rushed to snag a first-class ticket.

Unfortunately, those were sold out. Apparently, first-class tickets are like gold dust—people book them days in advance or queue at the crack of dawn to get their hands on one.

So, I had to settle for second class. Not a bad option, though.

For 10,000 FCFA (around $17), it’s pretty affordable, even if it’s not the most luxurious experience. With 13 hours of travel ahead of me, I was just happy to have a seat!

All Aboard: The Camrail Experience

After what felt like forever, it was finally time to board the train. Camrail, despite its hiccups, is the backbone of Cameroon’s rail network. It serves up an adventure for both tourists and locals alike. The Yaoundé-to-Ngaoundere route is one of the most popular. No wonder—it’s 13 hours of pure Cameroon, from lush forests to dry savannas.

Camrail offers three classes: First class (which, let’s be honest, is the dream but hard to get), second class (where I found myself), and third class (for those who don’t mind getting cozy with fellow passengers). Second class was fine, really. I had a seat, the view was spectacular, and I even managed to doze off despite the occasional bumps.

You board the train around 8 p.m., and it’s an overnight journey, so it’s basically a free pass to sleep through half of it. And while it’s no luxury express, it gets the job done.

The second-class wagon on the yaounde to Ngaoundere train was anything but comfortable. It felt incredibly cramped, with too many seats packed together, leaving passengers squeezed in tight. Crossing legs and bumping into each other was inevitable. To make matters worse, the train picked up extra passengers from the roadside who had no seats and ended up sitting in the aisles, making it nearly impossible to move around.

And the noise? Cameroonians love to chat, so it was a lively (and loud) atmosphere, which meant a sleepless night for me despite my best efforts to catch some rest!

How is the first class wagon?

I asked my neighbour how was the first class sleeper wagon and he told me the following.

The first-class sleeper train on Camrail is the epitome of comfort for those embarking on long journeys, particularly the overnight route from Yaoundé to Ngaoundere. With spacious cabins and comfortable beds, this option offers passengers a chance to relax and even get a good night’s sleep as the train chugs through Cameroon’s varied landscapes.

The cabins are air-conditioned, offering a cool respite from the often warm and humid weather outside, and they provide much-needed privacy compared to the crowded second-class compartments. Travelers who plan ahead and book in advance can secure these coveted tickets, as they tend to sell out quickly.

In addition to comfort, the first-class experience is also quieter, as the number of passengers per cabin is limited, ensuring a peaceful journey. The beds come with clean linens, and there’s enough space to stretch out, making it ideal for those who prefer a more relaxed and private travel experience. Whether you’re a tourist looking to take in the sights or a local traveling for business, the first-class sleeper train provides a level of convenience and tranquility that is hard to find elsewhere in Cameroon’s transport system.

How is the hygienic condition of the train?

Hygiene on Camrail trains, particularly in the second and third-class wagons, can be less than ideal. The toilets often not as clean as one might hope and sometimes lacking basic supplies. The floor, too, can get dirty quickly, especially with passengers constantly boarding and leaving at various stops. It’s a good idea to come prepared with essentials like hand sanitizer, tissues, and wet wipes to ensure a more comfortable and hygienic journey.

During a stop in Ngoundal, where the train broke down, I decided to use the bathroom. Everything inside was made of silver, and at first glance, it seemed standard enough. However, I didn’t realize that the toilet was directly linked to an open hole under the train. It wasn’t until I stepped outside to stretch my legs, along with many other passengers, that I noticed something truly unsettling.

As someone entered the bathroom, I saw urine dropping directly onto the tracks beneath the train. I couldn’t believe I was witnessing something so unhygienic and outdated in 2024—definitely one of the most disgusting experiences I’ve had.

Are there modern facilities in Camrail?

The facilities weren’t any better inside the train. The chairs were worn out, with fabrics almost completely torn in some places. The large windows, while providing a good view, didn’t look very clean, and because there was no air conditioning, they had to stay open throughout the trip. This caused two extremes—during the day, it was hot, sunny, and dusty, while at night, the wind made the train quite chilly. I wore a mask for most of the journey to cope with the dust, and honestly, I couldn’t stop counting the hours until we arrived.

How do people eat inside Camrail?

Eating inside Camrail trains is a practical yet mixed experience, varying by wagon class. For first-class passengers, meal options are typically available with a bit more convenience, often through onboard services where you can purchase snacks or simple meals during the journey.

In second and third class, you’ll likely rely on packed food or snacks purchased before boarding, as the crowded environment and lack of space can make eating on the train feel a bit chaotic. Occasionally, vendors may hop on at station stops, offering local snacks and drinks, which adds a bit of excitement but also contributes to the already lively and bustling atmosphere. It’s best to come prepared with your own provisions, especially for long trips like the Yaoundé to Ngaoundere route, where meal breaks might feel rushed amid the crowd.

Freight Trains: Camrail’s Unsung Hero

Now, while we passengers are taking in the sights, Camrail’s freight services are doing some serious work behind the scenes. The railway is crucial for transporting goods—everything from agricultural products to timber and oil—between Douala’s port and cities as far as Chad and the Central African Republic.

The rail network helps keep Cameroon’s economy chugging along, especially when the roads turn into mud pits during the rainy season.

The Bumps in the Road: Camrail’s Challenges on the way from Yaounde to Ngaoundere

Of course, it’s not all smooth sailing for Camrail. The 2016 train derailment near Eseka was a tragedy that left more than 70 people dead and raised questions about safety.

We ended up spending a solid 4 hours in Ngoundal waiting for the train to be fixed. Naturally, people weren’t thrilled about the delay, and after enough complaints, Camrail decided to offer us a “compensatory breakfast.” Now, get this: we each got a lovely combo of bread, a can of sardines, and water. I guess that’s the Camrail version of a gourmet meal! It was my first time experiencing something like this, and honestly, maybe we should pray for more broken trains if it means free snacks. So, instead of the 13-hour journey I signed up for, we left Yaoundé at 8 pm and didn’t roll into Ngaoundere until 4 pm the next day. Quite the extended vacation!

Ngaoundere train station is a modest but busy hub, reflecting the character of the town itself. It’s functional, with basic amenities but lacking the polish or modern facilities of larger stations. The platforms are often crowded with travelers. Many of whom are waiting for the long-haul trains that run to and from Yaoundé. I found a mix of vendors selling snacks and essentials to passengers.

The station itself has an air of organized chaos, especially during peak travel times. Though not particularly well-maintained, the station serves its purpose. It is a crucial link between northern Cameroon and the rest of the country.

Final Thoughts: The Camrail Adventure from Yaounde to Ngaoundere

In the end, my Camrail adventure was just that—an adventure. Whether you’re bumping along in second class, watching the scenery change before your eyes, Cameroon’s railway system has a charm all its own. It may not be the fastest, the fanciest, or the most modern, but it’s an experience that’s rich with the sights, sounds, and quirks of Cameroon.

So next time you’re in Yaoundé with a full day to spare, don’t stress—just grab a ticket (any ticket!), and buckle up for an unforgettable ride through one of Africa’s most diverse landscapes.

Since then, Camrail has been working to improve its maintenance, safety protocols, and overall service. Still, there’s room for improvement—especially when it comes to preventing overcrowding and upgrading aging infrastructure.

For those of us riding in second and third class there’s also the competition from road transport. Sure, buses are cheaper and more flexible. But let’s be real: who wants to spend 20 hours on Cameroon’s rough roads when you could be riding the rails? I heard Touristique bus agency plys this road regularly.

Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my other posts where I dive into the best ways to explore new destinations—from hidden gems to top tourist spots. Whether it’s navigating bustling airports, discovering lively churches, or reviewing unique transportation experiences, I’ve got you covered. Buckle up for more stories, tips, and adventures!